Getariako Txakolina is a small region in Spain’s Basque country, very close to the Atlantic and the French border. It’s cool there, often wet, and ocean breezes further help keep temperatures down. The outcome is extremely zesty-fresh whites. This is an outstanding 2020 from a great winemaker, Maitena Barrero. She’s daughter to one of Tony Laithwaite’s first Spanish contacts, Tony Barrero, and certainly has wine in her blood. She works at her tiny estate with her partner Hector Gomez and makes this linear-fresh white from their best Hondurrabi Zuri grapes. Wild-yeast fermented in barrel and aged on its lees for 18 months, it is super fresh, lemony and mineral-zipped, with that hint of the sea and smoky oak complexity. Classic with seafood.