Muga is a byword for quality in Rioja. It’s a family estate founded in 1932 and still housed in the historic Barrio de La Estación in Haro. It prides itself on some of the most traditional of red winemaking, as well as the most modern and fresh. As you might imagine Flor de Muga Blanco is in the latter camp. It’s a meticulously crafted white, using Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Maturana Blanca grapes, each from different soils – from sandy loam to iron-rich clay. The wine is all fermented in lightly toasted new oak casks, made at the bodega, and left there on its lees for six months. The result is a really complex white, with light spice and vanilla notes balancing intense grapefruit and lemon peel, with creamy weight. A star with paella.